Switzerland

Bundled Up For Winter

Zermatt

OMGOSH!!! I stayed at an ice hotel. It has been a dream of mine for the longest but being anemic couples with the fact I am Caribbean makes my life miserable in any environment that is lower than 30 degrees imagine spending 2 days in an ice cave that gets to a negative temperature.  My stay was truly an experience and if I am being honest painful one. Despite spending an entire year researching and purchasing the right winter gears for the journey.

Getting to Iglu Dorf in Zermatt was simple. From the airport caught the train to Zermatt Village with a transfer in Visp. The total journey was approximately 4 hours into the village. Gonergrat railway station located across the street got us to Rotenboden stop in less than 15 minutes and from there we walked to Iglu caves no more than 20 minutes away unfortunately there is no other way to get to the cave than walking. 

We were to meet our guide at Hotel Riffelhaus by 5:30 pm but we didn’t make it to Zermatt until 6:30 pm. After harassing the guides long enough they agreed to meet us for the journey to the cave an hour later. We had to wait above the Matterhorn in the middle of nowhere in the dark for about 1 hour in a negative -5 degrees weather. Thankfully we thought to purchase wine and vodka before we left the plaza at the train station or else the frost bites would have been unbearable. Instead we were intoxicated, singing and joking.

Our suite was everything I imagined, beautifully designed, the Jacuzzi was our best friend in the night as it raised our body temperature with the help of a German drink given to us by our guide. We didn’t last long until we hid in our sleeping bags to avoid the cold. The restaurant was extremely cold not surprising as every corner at the caves was made of ice with exception of the restrooms and a fireplace indoor bar if and when it gets too cold.

In the morning we had to get ready by 7:30 am for a buffet breakfast at the Riffelhaus hotel 15 minutes away from the caves. After breakfast you had the option to ski or tour the village.

Lucerne

Our next stop was Lucerne. From Zermatt we took the SBB train back to Visp, another transfer in Bern and 3 hours later we were in Lucerne. The city was beautiful and remarkably conserved small town. Nestled across the Reuss river along cobblestone lanes; it was just ideal to go around on foot. We spent the first day visiting the Chapel Bridge, the City Wall, the Lion Monument, Lucerne Town Hall and of course eating Ice cream which seem to be a popular thing in the winter.

After 4 days of actively walking around we decided to spend the next day at Burgenstock Resort Spa a 3 floors glass encased property. Pier 3 was just 10 minutes away from our apartment. The Burgenstock boat was just about to leave as we arrive at 8 am. We later took the funicular railway to the entrance of the resort at the top of the alpine. The location was phenomenal but a bit expensive. The relaxation was well needed. The resort sits atop the Bürgenberg mountain ridge overlooking the city, lake and alps. The spa offered indoor and outdoor pools, a nude section for women, Jacuzzi hidden within a cave, Turkish Steam, Kneipp bath, private bath chambers, an Arabian Razul using local Bürgenstock Rock, a panoramic sauna and tranquility room with fireplaces. Meals and drinks throughout the day are not included in the spa package but they do provide water, tea, fruits and nuts.

Zurich

Lastly, we made Zurich our final stop as it was closer to the airport which would be more convenient when leaving. We stayed in the old neighborhood (Die Altstadt) few feet from Grossmünster Church. We caught the train in the afternoon to Hauptbahnhof station followed by a taxi ride to California Hotel.

We only had the opportunity to tour the old city has we were leaving the following day. The narrow lanes, renaissance town halls, primitive houses, makes a striking backdrop for visitors to experience Zurich’s multilayered history. Sites worth exploring are:

  • Grossmunster Church built by Charlemagne; as per legend it is believed to be the site where saints Felix and Regula were buried.
  • Peterskirche or Peter’s Church has the largest clock face in Europe
  • Fraumünster popular site for the stained-glass windows by Giacometti and Chagall
  • Augustinergasse and Rennweg Street are beautiful medieval color and narrow pedestrians’ alleyway in Zurich
  • Niederdorfstrasse is one of Zuirch busiest avenue; has the most affordable eateries in Zurich and ideal nightlife district
  • Rathaus is the city hall and when the government is in session people can visit inside of the building.
  • Opernhaus or Opera House is an archaic building next to the river. An ideal activity in Zurich in the afternoon people were well dressed for the show. As an alternate they sometimes host tours for guest to visit the establishment.

This journey was another memorable experience. Cesare Pavese best described the experience: “Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things: air, sleep, dreams, sea, the sky – all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it.” It was painful, enlightening and pure bliss.

Cheers to many more destinations in 2019!!!