Haiti

The Pearl of the Islands

The Pearl of the Islands

Haiti political climate is uncertain. It might be peaceful today but total chaos tomorrow. Where else in the world can you wake up in the morning to realize foreign governments kidnapped your president and forced him out of the country. It saddens me that a country with so much potential continues to deteriorate in the hands of violent, corrupt and selfish rulers.

Could you believe it took me 5 years to go home while I trot around in many foreign countries? I purchased my airline ticket 6 months in advance this time. In the past I would buy it a week prior and it would cost around $900+ but this year it was $400 after a $200 airline credit which is considered affordable leaving from NYC on a direct flight to Port-au-Prince, Haiti.

Free your mind from the world’s stereotypes, fallacies and predispositions against the Island of Hispaniola. Despite the negativity there she offers so much more. I encourage others to visit what is still “The Pearl of the Islands”. The images typically shown of Haiti do not necessarily represent the country as a whole. It is a mishap for a traveler, globetrotter, etc., not to visit this pristine colony that has forged an imprint in the world’s history. This small country can be travelled in 20 days.

I searched the net for various journey people might have done but unfortunately resources were just scarce. Below are places that I visited while living in Haiti and from my recent visit. Every country has a multitude of attributes to offer. Haiti among them is condensed with unique characteristics that are worth experiencing. I will do my best to be brief, if more information is needed feel free to contact me directly.

Dining Experience at Port-au-Prince

I love food and love when my meals have a unique yet flavorful taste. Out of the many things my family do together, we love trying new restaurants. Within 5 years many great restaurants and smaller shop were built, so I was constantly eating while in Haiti. I prefer referring places that I recently visited and list others friends mentioned and did not have the chance to visit.

• The first is Epi D’Or, ideal for lunch and is quite affordable. It is a franchise restaurant located in various townships. I would not suggest the buffet style eatery as there are better places to try traditional meals. Stick to the bakery and pastry, preferably a burger or sandwich. They are always fresh with that distinctive savor mentioned. Grab a rhum raisin ice cream, mille feuille (Napoleon) my favorite and are traditional desert.

• Pizza Garden located in Petion-Ville is dear to my heart. While growing up, We often ate there as a family and it has yet to fail me. Their pizza is not your ordinary pizza. The cheese will look different. There is an option where you can choose mozzarella or kraft. It’s as easy to love their pizza as it is to hate it. The ambiance is very relaxing in the Haitian sense of the word. Ever eat pizza with fork and knife, be prepared… In the past my only issue was the wait, you would literally wait for over 1 hour for a pie. The pizza is expensive if it is compared to the average cost of a pizza pie abroad. The extra-large pie is presently the size of a large. So for their extra-large we paid $140 US for 2 pies including drinks for 10 people. The wait is much better than prior year so order appetizers like: “Kibbeh” (Stuffed wheat patties with ground beef, onions, walnuts, and seasoning) and “accra” (made with malanga/yautia mixed with spices and fried in hot oil or bake) my two favorite traditional starter dishes while waiting.

• L’observatoire located in Boutilier, offer a spectacular view of the bay, and the city of Port au Prince. Most people their griot (seasoned fried goat, pork, or beef), and their original “pain patate” (potato braid) desert your palate will thank you for. Try their “shrimp accra” an original twist of the traditional appetizer. You can’t visit Haiti without seeing this place the overall environment is perfect and sets a good mood. Also if you visit at night order the customary hot chocolate. I do not eat or drink chocolate but this one is a must have. If you are not interested in the artisan goods outside, politely say “non merci” (no thank you) and no one will badger.
• La Reserve located at Petion-Ville, conveniently tucked away in the middle of the hubbub city is a supreme utopia of peace. The preserve greenery offers a unique culinary experience from the usual atmosphere.  The staff is professional, friendly and attentive, and goes above and beyond to make sure that our experience was pleasant. The gastronomy comprise of an array of options will satisfy the most demanding palate. Though it may be on the higher end in terms of price, one must remember that the eatery is of international standard. This exotic reservation is a must visit as well.

• Visa lodge Restaurant located at Delmas close to the airport sits high over-looking swimming pool. I remember going there as a teen doing one of my father’s business meeting. You can say it was a very long time ago. I am just glad it is still around. They offer buffet and a la carte dining experience. The “conch” (Lambi) and the pepper steak are two of their finest dishes.

• If you are looking for a tapa, Muncheez and Harry’s are popular among the locals. I tend to visit them after a very long day or night of dancing. Muncheez is renowned for its pizza and at Harry’s like their Haitian styled spaghetti, kibbeh (never fails in Haitian) and “fritay” platter (fried plantains, accra, tassot/ goat).  Harry’s should invest on their décor the place looks vague.

Additional: La Plantation – Le Jardin de Mupanah – Papaye Restaurant – The View- Kokoye Restaurant- Magdoos

Nightlife

There are plenty of places to go in Port-au-Prince and Petion-Ville. Gathering in Haiti is a different experience so I would advise to bring a Haitian person to guide you on the dance floor or a down to earth buddy ready for anything. The experience you get from visiting places frequented by Expats who are working in Haiti and the locals vastly differ. For example the parties at Asu Lounge and Latin Quarter are similar to a night out in downtown Miami or at an exclusive NYC Rooftop party with eminently cosmopolitan flair as chic as it is relaxing. Everyone socialize with their respective entourage. On the other hand the local bars, lounges, disco people interact, dance, and talk with each other. If anyone ever visited Hoboken, NJ or a beach party in Ocean City, Maryland I would say it is more like that. People come to have fun, party and everything is forgotten once on the dance floor. Nonetheless I strongly urge everyone to visit the locations below and get plenty of sleep doing the day. The party does not start until 12am to 7am. You really don’t have to get there until 1am. The following site can also help you locate upcoming events doing your stay: http://partyinginhaiti.com/about-us/.

• Asu Lounge host exclusive parties some nights free of charge and others as high as $800.00 US for a table of 6 to 8 people.
• Latin Quarter located in the heart of Petion-Ville on Thursday nights host a live Cuban band, Melao Latino.
• Oloffson: Thursdays you must go to the Oloffson to hear RAM playing, a unique Haitian band in a voodoo theme artwork setting. They are very popular.

Additional: Caramel – Crystal Palace – Presse Cafe

What to do in Port-au-Prince

The main airport in Haiti is Toussaint Louverture International Airport located at Port-au-Prince the capital city. Some hotels are walking distance from the airport and others are located throughout the city. I suggest staying in Petion-Ville while in Capital, which is simply my personal preference. At Petion-Ville things are a bit expensive but you are really paying for the service, convenience, environment, the experience, stability, etc… The town does not sleep; you can find many restaurants, nightclubs, tapas open all through the night until dusk. Transportation as in car service is also available. I would not suggest the local mode of transportation check with your hotel or host on hiring a reliable driver. The scenery in Petion-Ville and nearby cities as you go up the hill towards Kenscoff is breathtakingly beautiful; pictures would not do it justice. Because of its altitude, the temperature is on average cooler than the capital and during winter months it can become quite cold; cold enough to warrant a sweater or a jacket. Apart from the restaurant, bars, and lounges below are places that are a short ride away from the city

• Historic Sugar Cane Park: The museum reflects the development of sugarcane in the country as well as the pride of Haitians through their horrendous slavery history. The Park is an open-air agronomic facility; filled with relics such as: steam locomotive, huge presses, vats, boilers, and small water mill. Also make a stop at the Relais de Chateaublond restaurant after your visit located right on the property in the midst of antebellum era.

• National Palace Ruins (White House): Haiti’s White House. Destroyed by the earthquake in 2010. It is currently being rebuilt.

• Musee du Pantheon (Pantheon Museum): This small museum is dedicated to the early history of Haiti. An interesting summation of the country’s history, starting with the Taino people, up to the overthrow of French rule by the slave population following the French Revolution.

• Champs de Mars (Central Park): Best to visit during the time of festivities, such as carnival, parades, Carifesta, and so on. Doing the day it is very crowded with lots of street vendors. The many statues depict the leaders throughout Haiti’s history. Negre Marron (Brown Maroon) for example is the symbol of slavery and freedom, the conch was used to call escaped slaves to gather while in hiding.

• Barbancourt Rum Distillery: This Rum is one of the best in the world and one of the oldest in the Caribbean. Every state visit has its detour to the factory. The aging process for the rum (rhum) from the initial distillation through the various stages is very interesting. You also get to taste so why not give it a try.

• Papillon Enterprise : The boutique itself has medium priced, handcrafted artifacts that are predominantly gift items, jewelry or household trinkets.

• Fort Jacques: Within 1 hour of Port-au-Prince at Kenskoff. The entrance fee varies between $5 USD for Haitians and $10 – $20 USD for foreigners (the good thing is you can always negotiate). The location is a beautiful farmland ideal for picnics as there are tables underneath the pine trees. French and Brittish canons are still on display. A non-Government appointed tour guide can give you a tour for $1 USD per person.

•    Ogier-Fombrun Museum: Growing up in Haiti, we were at Moulin Sur Mer every summer. The small museum is adjacent to the Moulin Sur Mer Resort. Built by Mr. Fombrun on the foundations of an old sugar plantation. The setting of the plantation captures the journey of Haiti through an artistic interpretation of slavery and overall history of the land. Tours are $5 USD and can be booked in French, English or Spanish.

• Village Artistique de Noailles: I lived in Croix-des-Bouquets growing up and back then there was just a few houses and my friends and I would walk for hours exploring and hiking. Unfortunately today just like the capital city this town is overpopulated, rundown and extremely poor. This hidden oasis in the midst of all the chaos is worth visiting if you are interested in art. Metal sculptures and some paintings are designed right there in their studios.

• Mountain Maid of Baptist Haiti Mission: Mountain Maid gives people the opportunity to experience the feeling that comes with using one’s own abilities to provide for their family. So everything for sale there are handmade or grown in their farmland. My family and I loved going there for brunch and purchasing artisanal items. My mom love plants so she always purchased plants from their reforestation project. They also sale the best and unique sandwiches at the Tea Terrace Restaurant. Also stop at their bakery on your way out everything is fresh made daily. Their outlet shop is also adjacent to the bakery, so if you wish to take some souvenirs back home this is the place to visit. I am not sure if their zoo is still open but I believe they still raise animals; why not asked when you are there.

Stay tune for Part II: “Exploring Haiti’s Provinces”