Cuba

Oh! The Places In Havana…

Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.”
― Anita Desai

The colors, the music, the beautiful man, the people, the dancing, the cigars, mojitos, Havana Club rum, the vintage cars and the landscape…

I never thought I would be able to see Cuba. Often in college we talked about heading that way; due to the tense political relationship at the time it simply wasn’t an option. But, good things come to those who wait. After the 44th president visit it became more accessible. Like a good and curious traveller I followed suite soon after. Taking in the authentic Cuba before the western infestation was one of the best decisions of my life.

I wish I knew more before visiting. Coming from Haiti a country also victim to US embargo, I thought I knew the story and understood the ramifications. But, I soon learned I knew nothing. When embargo is coupled with socialism and communist system you get a nation like Cuba; secluded, intensified in culture, well preserved in the 18th century to early 1900’s.

It is an absolute must for every globetrotter’ bucket list. Despite the poverty the country is a breath of fresh air; vibrant, rich in culture, history, music and art.

What would I do differently?

When traveling for the most part I am usually awake by 5am ready to take in my surrounding for the next 8 hours. I am thrill seeker, a food lover, and a culture hog. I travel for the culture, the experience, to interact with the people, to write, to get lost and grow in ways I can’t in my corner of comfortable. I rarely do the luxury vacation. Because I want more than spa days, beaches, pools, food, dancing, drinking and few excursions. Those aspects are often included in my voyages but they are never the highlight. For a true honest review of the culture, I stayed in a casa particular (residential home) to soak in as much of the everyday life of the people that I can in the short amount of time we had.

This time in Cuba it was a bit challenging because for the first time since college I was in a group with 2 of my dearest ladies. I always want those around me to be comfortable. So, while planning the trip I knew I couldn’t rough it Nubian queen style. I was conscious of my companions and did my best to accommodate their needs. Cuba is only now getting their amenities up to touristic standards. But, it is still an exciting destination that is for better or worst rapidly changing.

Staying with locals is arguably the best way to experience Cuba. But, because of my companions I recruited a company by the name of “Havana Journey” with a vintage car to get us around and give the ladies somewhat the vacation they were expecting. The house passed the test of comfortability, provided all the basics amenities plus a pool, was walking distance from the beach and we had breakfast buffet in the morning but could not be further away from the city center. Unfortunatly it was located in Guanabo 25 to 30 minutes away from Havana City. Hiring a car and a guide might have been comfortable but I hated the tour, the guide’s delivery, and the fact she altered the itinerary for her personal interest. I knew I could do it alone but I also know that my companions would have hated the day if I made them walk especially because it was often raining. I had the factory visit as an option but she opted for taking us to a private cigar shop for tasting and price check before she brought us to her friend’s house who works at the factory to purchase from her instead. She had the nerve to tell us not to tell anyone. The next day a few locals referred to us by a friend gave us a personal tour and inquired about the cost of ours since he was smoking a smaller version. He laughed at the price the guide charge and stated: “you got robbed; it can be purchased at a fraction of what you paid”. I selected to go swim in Vinales but instead she took us to a river where she emphasized people practiced the Santeria religion, an Afro-Cuban religion where people worshiped saints (more like voodoo if you ask me). She attempted to take us to her friend house to learn salsa for 15 CUC per person and when we refused she decided to spend the rest of the trip in the car and told us she would point to the places we were interested in but would no longer walk. She also only took us to her friends for lunch and dinner because they would not get any businesses if she did not bring her client to them. I guess you have to do what you can to survive but I was really aggravated for allowing it to happen and wasting so much money along the way.

My experience with the guide in no way described the rest of the population. In all communities there will always be someone attempting to get ahead by any means necessary. I had many other Cubans despite their financial circumstances who would not accept money despite giving us a tour for an entire day.

Things to know before going:

1. The Cuban Visa is sold at the airport on the day of arrival for $75 unlike the $25 if purchased in other foreign borders.
2. Change the US currency to Euro or Pound before entering Cuba as a penalty of 10% is assessed plus the standard 3% exchange rate fee. That means the dollar officially exchanges for 87 Cuban cents and not the dollar for dollar. Cuba has two currencies Cuban Convertible Pesos known as CUC is the tourist currency and the Cuban Peso or CUP used by locals. It is important to pay close attention to prices when purchasing because the local restaurants charge in CUP. 1 CUC is equivalent to 24 CUP. I ended with CUP by not paying attention to funds returned by vendors.
3. Change as much funds as you can at the airport to avoid the hustle of locating a hotel or restaurant willing to accept the currency. Cuba does not accept US debit or credit card even at the most “prestigious” hotels, restaurants or shops. Yes prestigious is in quotation on purpose.
4. Wi-Fi was introduce just 3 years ago provided by the government by purchasing prepaid Nauta Card and access is only available in certain hotels, Etecsa communication centers and specific public parks.

5. Under any circumstance should you purchase cigar outside of a government run facility, the factory or the farm. We made the mistake of by purchasing them from our tour guide for half the amount must I say that it was a total waste. Not sure what we were sold but tasted completely different than the ones from the ones from the official shops.

Sightseeing

 

Old Havana, Vedado, Havana Center, Miramar, Playa del Este and Jaimanitas are the most popular destinations in Havana. 5 days in Cuba was just enough to explore the highlights of those cities by starting each day as early as 9am until 6pm before heading back out at 9pm to explore the jazz tavern. A guide and driver can be recruited for $120 CUC per day to travel in between cities.

Below are what I loved most about my Cuba trip:

Day 1:
The day of arrival after spending 3 hours and half on the plane we decided to social map our neighborhood in Playas Del Este (Guanabo) a stretch of beaches about 30 minutes East of Havana. Walking distance from our casa particular had the highest concentration of locals, was slightly unkempt but more dynamic than the tourists beach. Unfortunately doing our stay it was raining every day and trash was scattered throughout. For quiet, cleaner watersports and tourist standard option Playa Jibacoa, Bacuranao and Playa Tarará.

Day 2:

On the second day we met our guide at the house by 9am. We made our way to Old Havana the colonial core of Cuba. In this area Cuba´s colonial history up to the US invasion and occupation of the island in 1898 is well insulated. We also explored the non-restored areas of the city where the less-privileged live.
· We then toured Old Havana´s most symbolic squares: Plaza de Armas (Arms Square), Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Plaza Vieja (Old Square), Plaza de la Catedral (Cathedral Square).
· Visiting Ambos Mundos Hotel and the famous bar of La Bodeguita del Medio, both spots frequented by Ernest Hemingway was one of the many reason I wanted to visit Cuba. I had the opportunity to dance Bachata with the band in front of the bar.
· After exploring the non-restored areas and being stunned at every turn witnessing the daily lives of the common citizen we made our way by car to the Flea Market “Central Josefita” for souvenirs before heading to Centro Habana (Havana from the early 20th century).
· Cuba had captivating notable figures during their revolution. The Revolution Square located at Havana Center is a symbol of their political process. Fidel Castro delivered many of his speeches. 3 prominent leaders of the revolution are illustrated at the square:
1. Che Guevara a legendary political figure was a doctor, a Marxist and allied of Fidel Castro engaged in guerrilla action throughout South America. Cuban ambassador in support of the revolution throughout the Congo and Soviet Union. He is rebellion, revolution and socialism.
2. Camilo Cienfuegos a guerrilla fighter considered to be one of the greatest heroes in Cuban Revolution. His goal was to free Cuban from the Batista dictatorship.
3. Jose Marti is Cuba National Hero. Have you heard of the song Guantanamera? The song was adapted from his poetry collection. He created the newspaper La Patria Libre. He was a journalist, poet, teacher campaigning for Cuban independence while also preventing the US from intervening in overthrowing the government and taking over the island. Visit to the outdoor areas of the Museum of the Revolution (former Presidential Palace) and the Granma Memorial.
· After our visit to the square we wondered around Parque Central, Great Theatre of Havana, Capitol Building and Prado Promenade before stopping for lunch at a paladar or private restaurant.
· Our next stop for the day was Vedado known as the modern Havana, drove around the famous Malecón a sea front promenade, Coppelia, Paseo Avenue and 23rd Street. We stopped at the National Hotel for bathroom break and to purchase a wifi card. The hotel also offers a buffet option available.
· Instead of going to the cigar factory we made our way to the state run cigar shop because it was close on weekends. At 10 CUC, the factory sounds like a better option. You can also try their free cigar from just about any shop and restaurant.
· Our final stop for the day was at Miramar exclusive residential area. Most of the foreign embassies are located there. The ride around 5th Avenue was intriguing because it is supposed to be a replica of New York City 5th Avenue built in the 20th century. It was home to many of Havana’s richest and most powerful citizens but today the homes are preserved as foreign embassies, schools, nurseries, offices, and so on.

Day 3:

Visiting Vinales was a must on this trip. The town offers some of the most beautiful views; is culturally rich and is an important part of western Cuba. Life in Viñales revolves around agriculture. The city is best experienced by devoting most of the time outdoors in its gorgeous limestone hills. If Cuba has the best cigars, Vinales has the premium.

In one day all the highlights below can be visited but the city is worth an overnight visit.
· Prehistoric Mural – A 120-meter tall replica of prehistoric paintings on a “mogote”
· Sightseeing at Hotel La Ermita for panoramic landscapes with a stunning background
· Palenque de los Cimarrones to learn about the Afro-Cuban religion and the history of slavery on the island during the 19th century.
· Cueva del Indio cave – A boat ride along the underground river that runs below the mountains
· Rancho San Vicente to swim at the natural springs waters
· Horseback riding tour through the village of Viñales
· Visit a tobacco plantation with traditional drying barns
· Silencio Cave located between the hummocks perfect for swimming

In the evening we visited Club Esencia with a few locals we met during our stay. The crowd wore their finest outfit accompanied by the latest gadget. A huge difference I noticed at their nightclub is the televisions installed in every corner of the dance floor. They sing along all the latest songs even from the US. I recall them screaming from the top of their lungs while watching God’s Plan music video of Drake. They spent most of their time watching the videos instead of dancing or socializing.

Day 4:

We decided to spend our last day with the gentlemen we encountered the night before. After picking up souvenirs at the Flea Market “Central Josefita” we saw on the first tour day, we drove along Jaimanitas further west of Miramar where the street art barrio of Fusterlandia is located.

The ladies got tired after a while. To rest we made our way to the area across the bay from Old Havana where the fortresses of El Morro overlooking the city and La Cabana were built to protect the city. The restaurant we planned on visiting got shutdown. We walked down the fort along the bay before hopping on the bus back to El Tablazo restaurant where our friends worked.

For an Afro Cuban Dance experience visit Tikoa a small basement space but the atmosphere is very indigenous. A preferred disco among the locals as the music is predominantly salsa and merengue. Parties start around midnight until wee hours of the morning.

If you ever want to travel back, touch history, or walk the path of unsung heroes you must visit Cuba. It is a humble place boasting a beautiful history. I hope that many get to experience this city frozen in time before western influence affects the people and the land.