Cambodia

Simplicity in Siem Reap

Landing in the most modest airport yet the cleanest, well maintained, landscaped and managed by efficient immigration officers. My hotel sent a complimentary driver; the gentleman was standing at the door with my name tag. He attempted to tell me using the few English words he knew that his rickshaw was parked in the street since he did not have a pass to access the airport. He laid my backpack on the seat next to him and extended his hands for me to hop on. It was pure bliss riding in the back seat of the rickshaw in this serene and old rural town. No more horns, chaos and crowded spaces; everything and everyone seems to have slowed down.

I stayed at Onderz Hotel and across the street was there hostel which was spotless for the number of guests.  The staff was always present cleaning the common area, the shaded pool and the rooftop pool, prepared meals and went above and beyond to assist. They are located next to Angkor Night Market and less than 5 minutes walking distance to Pub Street the section that never sleeps. They offered daily activities around the city on a weekly basis.

During happy hours at the hotel many guests sit at the bar or common area much like a living room to mingle. There on my first day I managed to get as many notes as possible on things to do, where to go, best bars and restaurant. Many of us sung along with the music while others danced. We exchanged social media account, travel stories, etc.… What I love most about travelling is the ability to do and be whoever I want without any expectation; the power to start anew and truly being free to exist, love, share, learn and explore.

I got a single-entry pass to Angkor Temples to visit the main sites starting at sunrise from Angkor Wat to Bayon, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei and Ta Keo. Angkor Wat is an Archaeological Park with more than 45 temples; the park accommodated many capitals of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to the 15th century. They are an incredible combination of Hindu and Buddhist cultures that survived centuries of war. To fully understand and appreciate everything I hired a local guide. Waking up at 4am to catch the sunrise in the park and watching the monk’s prayers was an incredible experience even though my guide was not very friendly. While walking I envisioned Indiana Jones and Lara Craft (Tom Raider my favorite movie) courageously exploring the grounds.

Took a day trip and boat ride on Tonle Sap Lake fishing village for a real taste of Cambodian everyday lives. The river during the dry season is pushed toward the Mekong.  During rainy season locals rely on the Mekong reversing its flow to replenish supplies, providing most the country’s protein production. The Lake is the largest fresh water in South East Asia; composed of floating villages, towering stilted houses, huge fish traps, and a financial system and way of life deeply intertwined. The lake is an essential resource, supplying more than half of the fish consumed in Cambodia. Resident in the village have very few opportunities and capacity to provide for their family. Parents sold us notebooks and pencils to donate back to their children who were running barefoot on the grounds as we were exploring. The town is one of Asia’s poorest community and with the lack of fish supplies the population is now endangered and people resort to many illegal behaviors in order to provide for their family.

My next escapade was the countryside bike tour. As we were pedaling down small dirt paths through the scenic village, locals greeted us as they went about their activities such rice farming, palm wine, sugar production, and basket weaving. I enjoyed the conversation with the guide talking about Cambodian culture and everyday lives. It was great way to see another aspect of Cambodian in the countryside all the sampling snacks and cold beers.

Since I was located near Pub Street and Angkor Night Market, daily in the evening I went for dinner at a different restaurant and stop to shop several times while roaming the market. The Night Market is a series of stylish traditional huts built in Khmer style created a charming experience as I wandered around a maze of over 240 shops. For those who need pampering after a day of exploring the city, there are several fish massage and spa parlors along the pave road. The items available are paintings, clothes, wood carvings, silk, and local delicacies (popular ones are ice cream and bugs eating). Pub Street was just a few feet away from the night market. It is an alleyway under the glowing neon signs bordered by clubs, bars, and restaurants, offering a wide range of culinary delights from Khmer specialties to Western favorites. That section of town offers what tourists look for after an exhausting day of sightseeing. No matter where you go in Pub Street there is always something to see and do. The section of town simply never sleeps; reminded me of Bangla Road in Phuket Thailand.

One evening I went to Koulen restaurant for a buffet dinner with Apsara Show. The restaurant is a huge establishment sits approximately 500 people. I arrived early and was fortunately placed at a VIP table near the stage after complaining to them that I was too small to sit in between the crowds. They had a large selection of dish from Khmer, Western and Chinese food and a live cooking station. I arrived early around 6:30pm since most people complained about food running out and not being replaced. I sincerely believed management must have improved because all through the night I had a lot to eat and there were planning left despite the restaurant being at capacity. I simply did not enjoy having to pay separately for drinks. Their natural juice cups were small I had to buy 3 glasses throughout the night and requested not to add ice. The show stunningly displayed Cambodia’s Khmer culture. I was in awe of the symbolic traditional dances as I admired the mythical narrative of the Hindu epic. The show was lined with elaborated costumes, traditional music, and religious folklore.

Cambodia is rich in tradition and history despite the many tragedy and poverty. The people are great host. Siem Reap is a town that can be experienced on a budget. Traveling with an English-speaking guide and tuk tuk driver was ideal for just $30 per day. Siem Reap can be explored on a long holiday getaway but the more time is obviously better since there countless things to do.

Other Activities:

  • Genecide Museum “Tuol Sleng
  • Angkor Wat National Museum
  • Cambodian Buddhist Water Blessing
  • Hot Air Balloon
  • Fish Massage
  • Khmer cooking class
  • Village Ox Cart Tour
  • Hunting and Fishing: Living off the Land
  • Khmer Warrior Initiation
  • Phnom Kulen Tour & Picnic
  • Pare the Cambodian Circus
  • Ziplining & ATV riding + Phare Circus