A Slice of Marrakesh

Marrakesh

I flew into Casablanca was supposed to catch another flight to Marrakesh but unfortunately Royal Air Maroc cancelled my flight without noticed. Instead I caught the train from the Airport to Marrakech for $138 Dirham with a stop at Casa Voyageurs. It took just about 4 hours. I really had no idea what to expect; I remember arriving at the station, remaining seated and asking myself if I really made it to my destination.

My trip started in The Station located in the New City. While it was scarcely modern, compared to the next 7days, it was the height of luxury. I took a taxi who charged me 100 Dirham just to take me 15 minutes into the Old Medina. Not only did he charge me 3 times the normal cost of the fare but would not even take me all the way to my Riad. He asked a young man walking by to take me to my alley expecting me to pay an additional 50 Dirham. I totally refused of course and thankfully the security guards stopped the young man from chasing after me into the hotel.  I was welcomed by the hotel manager who led me to my room and an attendant who serve me Moroccan mint tea.

After gathering information on how to navigate through the Medina I was back out sightseeing. The place was overwhelming much like stepping back into ancient civilization. I was astonished by the sights, the noise, the assortment of enticing smells, the tangled alleys, the donkeys, brightly colored scarves, rolls of dusty rugs and motorbike riding through very narrow passageways.  I was wandering through from alley to alley since my map was practically useless. Still I enjoyed getting lost in the many souks separated into sections like spices, soaps, carpets, silver, ceramics, leather, metal, haberdashery. Haggling for goods was certainly much easier away from the souks. All roads seemed to lead to Djemma El Fna square. Walking past snake-charmers, tooth-puller, fresh Juices and vegetables stalls, acrobatic pranks of decorated tumblers, monkey handlers and henna tattooist; the experience is not for the faint of hearts. It was already nightfall and it became impossible to walk since everyone seemed to emerge to the square as well as musicians, story tellers, fortune readers and dancers. At least I enjoyed savoring the many dishes in the food market: from Harira soup, spicy snail, sheep head and kebab just some of the many delicacies.

When it was time to head back, I couldn’t find my way. I was too exhausted so I hired a young guide and told him if he could get me to my Riad in 5 minutes I would pay him. I was too tired to play games as sometimes they take you around in circle either trying to figure out the location, getting you lost or simply making the way seem more complicated. He was than too eager to get me back as soon as he could we were practically running through the alleys. I did reward him 50 Dirham for his help.

The following day I spent my morning relaxing at the pool and the bar of the Hotel mingling with the other guests. It was too hot to be outside without shade. Late afternoon made my way back to Djemma El Fna square as it was easier to locate from the alleyway towards Koutoubia Mosque. The building is the tallest in the city and largest Mosque in Marrakech which was my focal point for navigation. After walking the grounds of the property caught a taxi to Bahia Palace followed by Jardin Majorelle.

On my last day I booked a day pass to La Mamounia including a massage or hamam, buffet lunch at the Pavilion and full access to the facility starting at 10am. I didn’t know the Hotel was walking distance from Djemma El Fna so I caught a taxi that did not bother to tell me. Thankfully we did not agree on a price so I paid 20 Dirham. The massage was a bit of a letdown, more like a body rub. This hotel since opened played host to many celebrities. It feels like a luxurious boutique very elegant and the grounds were immaculately kept.

Fes

From La Mamounia the cab took barely 20 minutes to get me the station for the last train leaving for Fes at 6:20pm with an exchange in Sidi Kacem. I must say it was a very long ride despite being in first class; we did not arrive until 4:30am. Unfortunately they no longer had the sleeper train.

My next tour wasn’t until 9am exploring the Medina. Along with my guide, we visited historic mosques, the Nejjarine Fountain, an iconic madrasa, the colorful tannery, and then perused for handicrafts at a traditional souk throughout the Medina. Right before the end of our tour we strolled around Dar el Makhzen the royal palace of Fes near the Jewish section of the Medina. After dinner at Restaurant Ryad Neijarine (worth a try) out of boredom another guest and I decided to go look for wine. We had to go to the new city. The men at the liquor store were stunned to see women entering an alcohol store. They remained motionless as they stared at us until we left the shop.

It was nice visiting Fes Medina but I spent 2 days too many. It was very conservative, ancient, and dirty with cats everywhere. Unless I stayed in the New City during the usual things as in any develop country there was nothing left to do. A day trip would have been much better.

Chefchouan

After my visit in Fes, I hired a car for a day trip to Chefchouan took about 3 to 4 hours to get there. The famous Instagram pictrues are inded accurate. The Medina is picturesque, clean and without aggressive vendors coercing you to buy things as in Marrakech. The narrow cobbled pathway, various shades of blue coupled with the arched structural design makes it a photographer’s haven. As per the driver, the colors are based on either the Jewish divine colors or repellent for mosquitos. The locals were passive and genuinely welcoming unlike the Marrakech who seemed to always have an ulterior motive.

The traditional Moroccon houses “riads”,   high dunes of the Sahara Desert, exotic gardens, walks through the hustle and bustle environment of the medina, sipping on mint tea, stunning architecture, natural juices and vibrant oriental colors makes this country one of my favorite destinations. Both budget backpackers and those seeking luxury can comfortably explore the country. Oh lastly, many of the visitors I met made their way to the beach in Tangier so as an alternate route I would consider Marrakech a few days, daily trip to Fes and followed by another day at Chefchouan and the final day relaxing along the coastline in Tangier.

Go for the colors, get lost in the narrow streets of ancient times, and say aloud I stepped through history and am wiser for it. Until my next adventure dear readers!